I get quite a few questions about ducks every year. Since I answer these questions if the form of comments, many times people don’t read all the other questions and answers and end up asking about things that have been addressed elsewhere. The recent comment threading has helped a little, but it can still be tough to wade through the hundreds of questions and answers that have accumulated over the years. In the interest of not typing answers over and over again, I have created this FAQ.
- Q1. How old do ducks have to be before they will fly
- Q2. How can I keep my ducks safe from predators?
- Q3. What should I feed my ducklings / ducks?
- Q4. Will my ducks fly away for the winter?
- Q5. I want to raise baby ducks and release them when they are adults. Is this possible?
- Q6. I rescued a baby duck that was all by itself. What do I do now?
- Q7. How can I tell if my duckling is a male or a female?
If you have true flying mallards, they should start flying between five and six weeks of age. In most cases, however, you will have domestic Mallards which have been selectively bred over the years to be larger. These birds will never fly as you expect from a duck, but will instead stay close to the ground, avoiding any dramatic flight. They can fly a little, but generally just in a straight line and close to the ground.
Most people who keep ducks have some form of duck yard that is fenced in with chicken wire on the sides and top. Mine is about 8 feet X 20 feet. The wire is dug into the ground so animals canâ€™t dig under it, and it is entirely closed in on the top. Inside that, I have a duckhouse which is a 4X8 plywood box lined with hay and secured with a door that is closed at night. Even if an animal could get into the duckyard, there is absolutely no way it could invade the duckhouse.
You need to defend against the predators in your area. If you have mink or weasels, you need to keep things very tight since they can get through holes as small as one inch. If your biggest worry is coyotes, chicken wire protected by heavy gating is preferable. I prefer to keep my ducks close to home, so I only let them out of the duckyard when I am going to be home for extended periods. Other people simply let them run free and try to get them in at night, while still others allow them to roam free all night as well.
The decision of how to house your ducks is your, and there is no right answer. If they are going to be beloved pets and you can’t stand the thought of loosing a single one, it’s best to keep them in an enclosure. If you want them to live a more wild life and understand that nature is cruel and you will loose some of them to predators, you can leave them out. Below is a picture of my duckyard. Multiple coyotes and raccoons have tried without success to get in. This is because of the heavy gating combined with chicken wire.
When your ducklings first hatch or arrive, the first thing you should do is get them drinking. Make sure they all know where the water is, and where to find it. This will help prevent choking once they start eating. Once you are certain that everyone knows how to drink, start them off on a high quality, unmedicated game bird starter crumble. Mash will also work, but is less desierable because it tends to clog up their bills. The most important thing is that the food is unmedicated. Ducks eat a lot more than chickens, and will overdose on medicated food. Supplementing their food with fresh greens and vegetables is always appreciated, especially if given to them directly in their water.
Once your ducks are three to four weeks old, you will want get them started on an unmedicated game bird pellet. Game bird maintainer feed is best, but regular poultry feed will also work provided it is not medicated. This will be their staple for life, with the exception of Spring. When hens start laying eggs, you will want to feed them layer pellets so provide them with the calcium they need to produce eggs. This will not harm the drakes, but you don’t want it to be a permanent feed. Get them back on the maintainer pellets once the laying season is over.
You will find your local farm and garden store to be an excellent source of high quality feeds. Feel free to take their advice as well, but do NOT let them talk you into medicated food for ducks.
Generally, no. In the same way that your domestic dog does not behave like a coyote of wolf, your ducks are domesticated, and will not behave like a wild duck. The look to you for food and safety, and will not know how to migrate unless they have been able to join in with a flock of wild ducks during the summer months. They can tolerate very cold temperatures provided they are given shelter from the wind, liquid water to drink and plenty of high quality food. Even though Mallard ducks are typically a wild bird, those raised by humans are tame, and generally not able to migrate or care for themselves in the wild.
It’s also important to realize that most mallards sold by feed and pet stores are not “True Flying Mallards”. They are hybrids that have been raised for meat production and are too heavy to migrate even if they wanted to.
See Q4. Ducklings are cute, but they grow into large, messy birds. I can’t stress this enough… Do not raise ducklings and expect them to fly away or live in the wild when they are adults. If you raise ducklings be prepared to care for them for their five to eight year lifespan. Even though Mallard ducks are typically a wild bird, those raised by humans are tame, and not able to care for themselves in the wild. If you abandon them and expect them to fend for themselves, they are likely to die a very slow and horrible death. There are methods of getting ducks to integrate into the wild, but this requires the special skills and training of a wild bird rehabilitator.
You probably heard the duckling cheeping. This noies was the duckling calling its mother. Most likely she was hidden, but close by. For future reference, you have to be very careful about rescuing baby ducks in this way. Most states have laws against taking animals from the wild, so you could get yourself into a lot of trouble. The only time “rescuing” them is appropriate is if they are very obviously not going to survive unless you do. An example of this might be a situation in which you saw the mother get hit by a car and all her ducklings are wondering around in the middle of the road.
That said, your heart was most certainly in the right place. You now have a baby duck, and need help with it. Let me see what I can do. The first thing I would do is search all the local bodies of water to find the mother and other ducklings. If you can, try to reunite them. If not, the absolute best thing to do would be to call a wild bird rehabilitator. They have the skills and training to raise ducklings in such a way that they can be integrated into the wild when they are adults.
Everyone wants to know the gender of their ducklings before they get their voice. Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is through a procedure called “vent sexing” whereby you stretch open the vent and look inside to find the duckling’s sex organs. This procedure is not only very traumatic for the duckling, but potentially dangerous as well. Without having someone who is experienced to train you, you can very easily hurt or even kill the duckling.
The best way for you to tell the gender of your ducklings is to wait until they are four or five weeks old when they get their voice. Drakes will develop a soft “whrack” sound, while hens will produce a loud “QWACK”. Check out the recordings below:
Many people make the mistake of thinking they have only hens because they all look like hens. It is important to remember that Mallard drakes don’t get their nuptial plumage (green heads, red chest, etc) until they are one year old. All juvenile Mallards look more or less like hens for their entire first year.